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As Pet-Parents, we too are concerned and struggle with trusting the quality and safety of our pup’s food.  We just came across a posting, courtesy of Halo Pets, of the  following terms to help you understand the potentially harmful ingredients found in some pet products.  Please take note below:

Artificial coloring: Used in many pet foods and treats, including rawhide chew toys, to entice the owner into buying the product. Can be harmful and cause toxicity. Has no nutritional value and has caused allergic reactions in some people.

BHA: A preservative and potentially dangerous for the kidneys.

BHT: Used to retard spoilage and more toxic than BHA.

By-products: Defined by Webster’s Dictionary “a derivative made from another product” and waste products such as hair, feathers, connective tissue, feet, claws, beaks, tongues and eyeballs. Peanut shells and newspapers are actually permitted to be used to boost protein and fiber levels in some commercial pet foods.

Carcinogen:A preservative and color enhancer. These include: sodium nitrate, ethoxyguin and sodium nitrite.

Corn syrup: Used to give food a dampness and flexibility (as in semi-moist foods and treats). It’s pure sugar, which is harmful to pets. They can get addicted to this taste and can cause the “finicky eater” syndrome.

Dry blood meal: An inexpensive source of poor quality protein in some dog and cat foods. It is very indigestible.

Mono Sodium Glutamate (MSG): A flavor enhancer used to disguise inferior food quality. High percentage of allergic reactions in pets and people.

Propyl gallate: Chemical used to retard spoilage.

Propylene glycol: Chemical used in anti-freeze and a solvent in brake fluids. Used as a preservative and flavor enhancer in foods. Tastes very sweet.

Courtesy of Halo, purely for pets

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Wanted to pass this along to all Pet Parents who are planning to travel with their pets this summer.  Now there is a free phone service you can call that can assist you to the nearest emergency Vet Clinic where ever you are.  This service is free until the end of summer, through Labor Day, Sept 6th.  Check this out for more information from The Veterinary News, “Free Phone Service Connects Travelers to Nearest ER Vet Clinic”.

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My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources. 

 

Here’s  my take on 3 of the most popular flea and tick solutions available today:
 
Frontline (also known as Top Spot): This is topical oil that you can place on your dog or cat to kills fleas and ticks. It is applied in a single spot, usually between the shoulder blades, and it then automatically uses the body’s natural oils to spread evenly over the pet. It is the most effective product I have found to kill both fleas and ticks.
 
Pros: Kills fleas, ticks and biting lice; relatively easy to apply.
 
Cons: Topical, so you have to have some concern with young children (need to keep the children away from the application spot for a day or so); cannot bathe the pet 2 days prior to or 2 days after application. Not a repellant, so ticks will still attach before they die.
 
Designed to kill the tick before they can effectively transfer babesia or ehrlichia.

Advantage: This is topical oil that you can place on your dog or cat to kill fleas. It does not kill ticks. It is applied the same way as Frontline. I have found this to be extremely effective against the fleas, more so in my experience than Frontline. If you do not have a tick problem in your area, this is a great product. I use this on nearly all of the cats with flea problems.

Pros: Very effective in killing fleas quickly; relatively easy to apply. No bathing restrictions.

Cons: Does not kill ticks. Topical, so you have to have some concern with young children (need to keep the children away from the application spot for a day or so).

Designed as a flea control/preventive product.


Revolution: This is the newest anti-parasitic product that has come out. It has some effectiveness against fleas, ticks, some internal parasites, heartworm in cats and dogs, sarcoptic mange, and ear mites. It is also a topical that you can apply similar to the other products. We have now had enough time to evaluate the product and it works quite well. It is very good for use in pets that have multiple problems such as ear mites and fleas, and is the easiest way to prevent heartworms in cats. So in many puppies and kittens, this has become our first line of defense. I think we will find this to be revolutionary in helping prevent the often fatal heartworm disease, especially in our feline friends.

Pros: Effective against a lot of parasites; easy to apply.

Cons: Topical, so you have to keep the kids away from the area of application on the first day.

I am very pleased with the results of this relatively new product!

As always, I’m happy to help your pet…and their people, too.

Dr. Ruan

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Thanks to elephantjournal.com for putting together this adorable story, and to Sarah Wilson for posting it on her Fan Page for all of us to enjoy! It’s just a really cute story that makes you stop what your doing and watch how animals are so incredibly amazing!!  And, plus, this ones puts a big smile on your face, especially for the ”Mom”!  A true story about a Mother Duck in Spokane Washington.

 

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I am sure there are alot of you Pet Parents out there who have Pups that get really scared with loud noises! My first experience was FRIGHTING!!  On one Fourth of July, my 80lb German Shepherd  became so freaked out he went through our car window that was barely open half-way!  Here is a really great article by Dee with balanceddogs.com, giving you great ideas and tips to help with this upcoming 4th of July!  When July 4th Stopped Being Fun

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Thank you (again) to Sarah Wilson for posting this AMAZING story on her Fan page!  This story is about animals going against nature and purposely seeking each other out, truly unbelieveable!  Have a look at this video, guaranteed to warm your heart and put a smile on your face forever!  Animal Odd Couples: Unlikely Duos Find Friendship

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Most cats do not need to be bathed unless they have a skin problem such as fleas, ticks, miliary dermatitis, seborrhea, and in some cases hot spots etc. But if you have a cat that will cooperate and you wish to give it a try, (assuming your cat has the conditions I mentioned), here are a few tips to follow:

- Be sure to use a shampoo made for cats. Their skin’s pH is different from ours, so even the mildest of human shampoos can cause them to dry out. This is very important!

- Brush them before AND after you bathe them. Brushing beforehand makes the brushing after much easier.

- If your cat has any mats, please see your veterinarian or a professional groomer for advice on how to remove them. Sometimes they can be teased out with a comb, sometimes they need to be clipped out. If they need to be clipped let a professional show you how the first time so you do not cut their skin.

- Clip their toenails, front and back, before you start. This may save you some wear and tear on your own skin.

- Be careful around their eyes and ears. If your cat will let you, place a cotton ball in each ear before the bath (remember to remove these when the bath is over). There also are bland eye ointments (Duratears or others that you can buy at most pet stores) you can use to protect their eyes from soap or detergents.

- If your cat does not like the bathing routine, don’t push your luck. An angry cat can be very dangerous.

- Most cats do not have an odor from not being bathed. If you think your cat smells abnormal, don’t jump to a bath. Have a check up with your veterinarian. Most of the time the odor is NOT skin related, but has some other cause, and you may go through an unnecessary bath, which may not be much fun for you or your cat.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

ScreenHunter_01 Apr. 07 11.18This is an awesome cause for all pet owners who love to take pics of their beloved pets, put it on a postcard and help save Shelter Animals!!  Check out how you can participate with Nikki Moustaki and Ilovedogs.com in The Pet Postcard Project!

ScreenHunter_01 Mar. 22 20.18 Kellan Lutz is always so vocal about how he got his dog, Kola, from a shelter. He is always so emotional when telling how he saw her in the corner and coaxing her out he knew that he had a connection with this dog. Later, he would adopt her saying that he felt he was the right owner for her. Read more…

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Your dog’s ears are wonderful instruments, many times more sensitive than yours. They can hear sounds at far greater distances than humans can. And, in addition, are able to pick up sounds with a frequency so high that they are impossible for the human ear to detect. Persons who have trained dogs are familiar with this phenomenon, thanks to the so-called “silent” whistles, which, though inaudible to man, bring instant response from a conditioned dog.

The obviously different things about your dog’s ears are the large outer ears, their larger openings, and the highly developed muscular control it has over the outer “flaps.” Even dogs with flaps that completely cover the openings are able to lift them, to some extent, when “on alert.” Lifting the flaps, obviously, makes it easier to pick up the sound.

Because a dog’s ears are like ours in basic design, your dog can suffer from the same infirmities, damage and diseases. Even deafness is common, especially as an undesirable companion of old age.

Your dog’s ears require a good deal of care and attention. Frequent cleaning should be number one on your personal ear-care list. Periodic checkups by your veterinarian will be your assurance that your pet is protected from diseases and other problems.

Regular inspection of your dog’s ears is particularly important in keeping them clear of yeast, fungus, bacteria, external parasites, mites, and ticks in particular. Dogs with ears that flap over require extra attention in this respect and, in general, require more frequent attention than those with “erect” ears.

Working on a dog’s ears requires a steady hand and a thorough knowledge of just where and how cleaning should be done. To prevent irreparable harm from befalling your dog, ask your veterinarian to explain just how you should handle the cleaning procedures and get an absolutely clear reading on the do’s and don’ts.

In examining your dog’s ears, you’ll notice a series of “ridges and valleys” which comprise excellent places for wax and dirt to accumulate. Wax is the breeding ground for yeast and bacteria. These may be cleaned with a ball of cotton, used dry, or, if the dirt is stubborn, saturated with ear cleaner or a preparation recommended by your veterinarian. Remember to consult your veterinarian before you attempt to clean your dog’s ears and do not, under any circumstances, use a swab to probe in the canal area.

Just how important is it to keep your dog’s ears clean? A good way to answer that question is to point out that many people complain about “dog” odor and mention this as the reason they won’t have a dog in their house. My personal experience is that, in almost 80% of “dog odor” cases, the dog’s ears are the root of the problem.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

This just put the biggest smile on my face! The proud owners of a dog washing/grooming business in Austin Texas, posted this on their twitter page and it is so cute I just had to share! Plus, great to see people who love their jobs and do wonderful things for animals! Have a look…

With “Spring in the Air”  (or wishing it was!) I’m beginning to start my gardening so I made a note to myself, “remind gardeners not to put weed killer down or  anything else”.  This thought reminded me of a very important article I want to share to help pet parents protect their beloved pets!  Please read below:

Over the weekend the doting owner of two young lab mixes purchased
Cocoa Mulch from Target to use in their garden. They loved the way it
smelled and it was advertised to keep cats away from their garden.
Their dog Calypso decided that the mulch smelled good enough to eat
and devoured a large helping. She vomited a few times which was
typical when she eats something new but wasn’t acting lethargic in
any way. The next day, Mom woke up and took Calypso out for her
morning walk . Half way through the walk, she had a seizure and died
instantly.

Although the mulch had NO warnings printed on the label, upon
further investigation on the company’s website, this product is
HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.

Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey’s, and they claim that ‘It
is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa
Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on
each individual dog). However, 98% of all dogs won’t eat it.’

TRUE STORY … This Snopes site gives the following information:
http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoamulch.asp

Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman’s Garden Supply
and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called ‘
Theobromine‘ . It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate
and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die.
Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Theobromine is
in all chocolate, especially dark or baker’s chocolate which is toxic
to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of
theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and
theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch
made fr om cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17
hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao
bean
shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

PLEASE GIVE THIS THE WIDEST DISTRIBUTION!

For all of you out there that share my feelings for Big Daddy … An amazing dog  http://www.dogtipper.com/blog/2010/02/remembering-daddy.html

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Feeding your pet should be one of the easiest things you do. However, with all the hype and advertising that exists in the media, it has become one of the most confusing areas for pet owners. Pet food has become a multi-billion dollar industry and each company is very interested in convincing you that their line of food is better than the others. Do they have your best interests at heart? Read on to learn more.

I suggest to stick with the major brands of food and avoid “generic” diets. The major brands are tried and true and they cross state lines during transport, which means they fall under stricter governmental controls. Diets that are made locally are not as rigorously controlled. And even some of the generic brands that are made by large super store chains cannot compete with the quality and research that is put into the diets that are made by companies making pet foods. So if you’ve never heard of a brand before, be sure you check with your veterinarian before you purchase.

Usually the commercially produced brands of food are complete. You do not need to add any supplements to these diets. Water is the only thing they are missing. Before adding anything else (vitamins, minerals, milk or other liquids, etc.), please consult with your veterinarian. Some of these supplements can actually cause more harm than good.

The only difference between the dry and canned versions of food is generally the water content. It is OK to feed canned foods if you want to deal with the added mess and work. Dry food is, however, very good for the teeth. If you do not feed dry food at all, and even if you do, be sure to give your pet things to chew on and consider brushing their teeth. This not only saves them from having dental problems, it will save them from having anesthesia to clean their teeth and save you veterinary bills.

As a general statement, puppies and kittens should be fed puppy and kitten food until approximately six months of age. At that time they should be slowly weaned onto adult foods. It takes about 2 to3 weeks to wean dogs and cats from young to adult food. This will vary from breed to breed, so please check with your breeder or veterinarian for your specific pet. Additionally, if you have a large breed dog (Great Dane, Golden Retriever, Burmese Mountain Dog, etc.), be sure to also check with your veterinarian about specific feeding instructions. It is extremely important to not overfeed the large breeds early in life. This will have an impact on their skeletal system and increase the chances of hip dysplasia.

Beyond all the hype of premium brands versus regular brands, pet store vs. supermarket brands, dry vs. canned, etc., I have found one thing to be true: the more money you spend on the foods, the less faeces you have to pick up! The premium brands are more concentrated and digestible, therefore there is less fecal material produced.

As your pet gets older, it is very important to discuss diet with your veterinarian. There are terrific diets on the market to help prolong the lives of our pets as they develop certain problems (obesity, kidney disease, liver problems, allergies, etc.). They may be more expensive, but well worth it. This is one area where the truth is as good as the hype. Dietary changes can make a significant difference in the older pets.

In summary, feeding your pet should not be hard. Pick a name brand that you are familiar with, feed puppy and kitten food to the young ones, adult foods to those generally over 6 months of age, check with your veterinarian on what to feed when they get past middle aged, and don’t get caught up in all the other advertising hype. Most of the diets out there are fine and our pets seem to thrive well on nearly all of them. Most importantly though, speak to your veterinarian or leave a comment with your specific questions.

As always, I’m happy to help your pet…and their people, too.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Question: After adopting a dog from a shelter my dog was diagnosed with kennel cough.  Many people tell me their dogs never vomited when they had this.  My dog finally started eating but when she drinks water the dry cough starts and she vomits the water every time.  This has been one week now.  How long will this last??   My vet put her on antibiotics and he is away for a few days.  She isn’t lethargic like she was and is much more lively but I feel so bad for her to keep vomiting every time she drinks water.

Answer: Limit her water intake by offering her small amounts often so she doesn’t drink too much in one sitting. This can decrease the possible tracheal stimulation she is experiencing usually associated with kennel cough.  If it does not stop take her to your vet and ask him to do a culture and sensitivity by tracheal swab.  Your vet should be able to do this to determine the right antibiotics your dog should be on.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Most often, bad dog breath is caused by dental or periodontal disease. Some dogs do not adequately chew their food; thus they don’t clean their teeth naturally by the chewing process. Also, some dogs and cats are just prone to dental plaque, tartar and disease. These pets may need more frequent dental cleanings and treatments.

Internal diseases such as kidney disease can also cause bad breath. A trip to your veterinarian is recommended in order to pinpoint the cause of your dog’s bad breath and to ensure he is in good health.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Simply by watching your large breed puppy move and play, you can pick up the early warning signs of abnormal hip development at home. Early detection affords your puppy multiple medical and surgical options necessary to enjoy a comfortable life. Radiographic and orthopedic examination of the hips can be performed as early as 16 weeks with good accuracy in assessing your dog’s hip health.

Here are a few simple rules for optimum hip development in your ‘at risk’ puppy:

1. Feed “Large Breed Growth Diet”, then change to adult diet at 8 months. The protein, calcium, phosphorous, and electrolytes are balanced for gradual controlled growth. It’s better to err on the side of being too thin than too fat.

2. Moderate exercise only, for the first 8 months of life. Straight line walking or swimming are excellent. Jogging and vertical play (jumping for balls and frisbees) is not recommended.

3. Watch for any of the following warning signals of Hip Dysplasia:
-Bunny Hopping with the rear legs.
-Pain on extension of the hips, check weekly.
-Pulling up with the front legs from a sitting position.
-Tires very easily, resists strenuous exercise
-Occasional limping on one or both of the rear legs.
-Audible “pop” or “click” when walking.

Remember to see your vet if you see any of these signals!

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Cats, as you’re witnessing, have a much more sensitive vomiting reflex than we do, so it isn’t unusual for cats to vomit when they don’t appear sick. I assume your cat has a healthy, but not excessive, appetite; isn’t losing weight or acting lethargic; doesn’t have diarrhea; and that parasites have been ruled out. If any of these symptoms are present, or if he’s vomiting green or orange liquid (bile), a medical problem is likely and should be investigated by your Vet.

The two most common scenarios in which well cats vomit are (1) from eating too much or too fast, which results in vomiting undigested food very soon after eating, and (2) hairballs, which usually cause vomiting of the hairball itself. Hairballs have no sure-fire remedy, but the most popular thing to try is a hairball lubricant (make sure you give this on an empty stomach, not with food); also frequent combing; brushing, or even a “lion clip” (for a long-haired cat) will be helpful. Any hair you can remove is hair that your cat will not end up swallowing. There is also a new hairball formula cat food on the market that may help. Ask your veterinarian about this.

As for eating too much or too fast, this problem is usually worse in cases where cats have their food taken away and are only permitted to eat at certain times of the day, causing them to gorge when food is available. I personally don’t do this with my cat. I only give one bowl of food per day and she can eat ad lib until the next day. Usually there is still food left in the bowl the next morning. Trials of different brands of food may help. Anything else you can do (portioning the food out gradually, for example) to encourage eating smaller amounts frequently might also be helpful. If the vomiting is daily, you might want to try medication. However, most people don’t want to medicate their cats daily if vomiting only occurs once a week or less.

If these ideas don’t help you, the only way to get a certain answer as far as any medical cause, such as inflammatory bowel disease, would be to have biopsies of the stomach and intestinal tract done. Your veterinarian can tell you more about this.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

I recently had someone ask me (over dinner) – what are the most common mistakes that pet owners make with their pets?

I had to think for a few minutes, but 6 major things came to mind. I thought I’d share them with you in hopes that we can prevent a problem with your pet.

Here are the most common mistakes many pet owners make:

1. Not having a yearly examination done on their pets. Yearly exams are important and can isolate potential health problems early while they are still treatable.

2. Don’t keep a current ID tag on their pet or embed microchip. Many pets don’t have a current ID tag or microchip. These two items provide the BEST information so your lost pet can be returned to you. At the clinics – we often see pets brought in without a tag or microchip for identification. Without Identification, many of these pets are never reunited with their owners and are either put up for adoption or in more sad cases, euthanized.

3. Allow their dog to run free. This is a problem for many reasons. Dogs that are permitted to “run free” often get into trash, ingest toxins or are traumatized by being hit by a car or in a fight with another animal. This can be prevented by keeping a dog within a fenced yard or on a leash.

4. Skimping on nutrition. A good quality food is important to dogs. Skimping on nutrition can be a problem. Dogs need a high quality balanced diet that is formulated to meet their life-stage needs.

5.  Don’t monitor their dogs and cats. It is important to monitor dogs and cats on a daily basis. They are so good at hiding their illnesses that often by the time we notice – the disease may be quite advanced. For this reason – it is important to look for early signs of problems.  Monitor your animal’s urinations, defecations, attitude and appetite every day.

6. Lastly, many pet owners don’t pay attention to toxins and medications that may be laying around and accessible to their dog. It is important to dog-proof your home to ensure your dog can’t get into common toxins such as rat poison, anti-freeze, medications (dog and human) or the trash.

I know that feeding a high quality diet costs a bit more, but in my opinion it is an investment in your dog’s well being. I know that in the current economy saving money is a top priority, so whatever you do, keep your dog safe. Most importantly, ensure your dog is being fed a good quality food, sees your veterinarian yearly. Also, make sure your home is “dog-proof”.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

My name is Dr. Ruan Bester, and my goal is to help you, the pet owner, improve your knowledge of your pet’s everyday needs and health care through a variety of pet services and veterinary resources.

Is your dog or cat itching at the spot above its tail? Is your cat scratching around its neck? Even if you do not see fleas, if you find flea dirt, the pin-prick-sized residue of these pests, your pet has a problem. Do not take fleas lightly. Beyond their itchy bites, flea infestations can lead to skin infections, spread diseases, and even suck enough blood to cause a life-threatening anemia. Pets can catch tapeworms as they groom themselves and eat the fleas. The scariest aspect of the flea however, is its ability to survive and reproduce.

After mating, a female flea can lay up to 45 eggs a day, which hatch in four to 10 days. A flea can live up to 18 months, potentially producing 18000 offspring. If all of these fleas were to reproduce, the succeeding generation could total over 130 million (the next generation would be 9 million billion, or 2 million fleas for every person on earth). It is easy to see why a flea infestation can be such a difficult problem to eliminate.

Fortunately, recent advancements hold the key to solving this problem. Flea control medications like Frontline and Revolution have virtually eliminated this aggravation. Which medication is best for your pet depends on your individual situation. The amount of time they spend indoors or outdoors, the amount they swim or are bathed, and other parasite problems will contribute to the decision.

Revolution and Frontline are a topical spot-on that are used once per month. Both these products kill fleas that come in contact with your pet, so it is a very good product for animals with flea allergies in which one bite can cause great discomfort. Make sure you test your dog at the vet for heartworm before using Revolution.

In warm climates, it is recommended that you use flea products for all 12 months of the year. Although the cost may seem expensive initially, it is much less than the combined cost of repeated sprays, flea bombs, baths and dips. You may obtain these medications at your local vet. It is recommended that you talk to your veterinarian before using any new medication with your pet because, as with people, all drugs are not suitable for all pets. Inappropriate uses of prescription and over-the-counter drugs can cause major problems.

Fleas are not the only cause of itching. Allergies (to food, pollens, or bedding,) skin infections (by bacteria, yeast or fungi), parasites, and other metabolic problems can all cause dogs and cats to itch without fleas. If you have doubts about the cause of your pet’s scratching, it is best to have your pet checked by your local vet.

If you have any questions about fleas and flea bite allergies, please add your comment/questions below and I will do my best to help answer them.

Dr. Ruan Bester, BVSc (UP)

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